LEYDA

My favorite winery of all the places I visited in Chile was Leyda. The company is run by young, passionate winemakers in the coastal area of San Antonio. This place and the people were so charming, it was hard for me to separate their story of dedication and love from the wines . . . But I was told by the wine writer friends I made that this happens to them too in some respects, so in the end I didn't feel so bad. Their plants are very new, only about 2-3 years old and their coastal breezes create a fruitful micro climate. All the grapes were planted on a slope and are hand picked, "It's the only way."

I loved Leyda because it felt new, alive, humble and different there. My favorite wine from them by far was their Syrah; so warm, jammy and spicy. It was splendid with our lunch of paella, cheeses, salads and a special mushroom risotto prepared just for me.

PISCO SOURS

The wines in Chile and Argentina were excellent. Surprisingly complex, rich and heavenly, but after two lengthy tastings per day on our trip, all I wanted in the evenings was a refreshing, boozy cocktail (or two). Meet the PISCO SOUR. Have you had one?

A Pisco Sour involves Pisco--a yellowish grape brandy-- bitters, fresh lemon or lime and egg whites for froth. Man oh man this is a divine combination! In Chile I threw quite a few of these back and they always hit the spot. I'll definitely be trying my hands at the Pisco Sour come summer time.

HOTEL AUBREY - SANTIAGO, CHILE

I'm not sure where to start with the massive amount of images from my recent trip to South America. It was such a spectacular adventure, full of comradery and laughs with new friends (wine writers are definitely people you want to have international escapades with!), wine education (I felt like I got a crash course from the world's top experts, lucky me!), stunning vineyards/landscapes, creative meals prepared for me with love and care (vegetarian power!) and a certain elegance pervading the streets of each city we were based in.

Both Chile and Argentina captured my heart. I will return with my darling D in the near future. For now, let's start with the end and work our way to the beginning, shall we? I am my mother's daughter after all.

I finished the journey with a few days on my own in Santiago, Chile. This was a bustling capital with lots going on; (like the fish market and Karen Barbe) but one of my favorite parts was spending evenings and lazy mornings in my swank hotel, The Aubrey.

My stay was kindly sponsored by Tablet and the folks here at The Aubrey couldn't have been more accommodating. The staff helped me decipher my map and figure out the non-touristy path I wanted to take when exploring the city and I even received a cooking lesson from Mauricio, the most adorable chef (more on that on The Kitchn next week). My room was a veritable palace, complete with groovy rose gold orb lighting I wanted to tuck into my overflowing suitcase.

The best part of The Aubrey though was their afternoon tea service. Well it's no joke I'm a sucker for tea and cookies, so each day I worked my plan around this respite -- using the time to journal alongside a different sweet and tea leaf. The best tea hour was when there was just a caramel and coconut shortbread tart sitting there near the golden tea cups (ooh la la!!) looking so unassuming. Naturally I had to try a bite and bam 2 slices later, I declared it my early dinner and I was jammin from the sugar high.

If you have the opportunity to explore Santiago, Chile, I'd highly recommend staying at The Aubrey - it's in the lovely Bella Vista neighborhood and is spitting distance to Pablo Neruda's house (to be blogged soon).

LA MODA Y EL CARPACCIO

This evening, after a long and beautiful day at a very mountainous region of Chile, I leave you with two totally random and unrelated photos. At the left is a long and lovely model who was sashaying around my hotel when I returned from the winery, all dusty and sun burnt and totally out of sorts (me not her, me!) . . . Here were a string of ladies swirling in long floral dresses the lobby for a Fiat conference. Life is so totally strange.

At the right is one of my favorite dishes I've had so far, an avocado carpaccio. The plate has delicately sliced sections of perfect avocado, an aggressive amount of lemon juice, a little Parmesan cheese, capers and watercress garnish. This is such an elegant idea for a first course. mmm....

Avocados and pretty ladies.

COUSINO MACUL

Yesterday, we spent time at Cousino Macul, one of the oldest wineries in Santiago, Chile. There were nice gardens surrounding the cave/cellar, with loads of native and foreign trees planted centuries ago. The interior of the cave was quite enchanting; it was such an ambitious project especially considering it was built about 150 years ago. It was quite moody down there . . .

My favorite wine we tasted there was their Sauvignon Gris, a blend of flavors I've never had. It was delicious and bright, perfect for a summer evening on the porch with some nibbles.

SANTIAGO: MERCADO CENTRAL PART 1

I cannot believe I've been in Chile for less than 24 hours and I'm already falling deeply in love with this country. I talked to so many smiling faces today in and around Santiago, my heart has melted a little bit. It is the people that really make a place isn't it? We only scratched the surface with a short trip to Mercado Central, lunch of avocado and heart of palm salad and a lovely candlelit dinner we ate as the sun went town, painting the Andes a shocking pink. I'm as giddy as a school girl! There are so many electric colors and textures here, and as I said before, a genuine friendliness.

Mercado Central was built in 1872 for the National Exposition in Chile and continues to host a smaller (semi touristic) fish market with many seafood cafes. The ironwork and architecture is lovely, full of graceful lines and curves.